Sept 2006

I thought I’d eaten everything on Chaula’s menu. As a regular take-away customer, I was pretty sure I’d been through the lot, so when I took a friend there for lunch on Saturday, I was confident my recommendation of chicken methi (fenugreek leaves) and baby aubergines stuffed with cashews would impress. 

As I’d never eaten-in before (I’d been put off by the bare tables, bright lights and industrial fridges), I’d never really paid attention to the blackboard behind the counter. Which meant I had no idea Chaula also prepared some special dishes for her eat-in customers, one of which was masala dosa. I can’t think of another place in Sussex that does masala dosa, those thin pancakes from southern India stuffed with spicy potatoes and served with chutneys. And I can’t think of anywhere in Britain that does them for £3.99. We ordered two. Nor could either of us avoid the lure of a mango lassi. We also both fancied the petis, tiny little deep-fried patties of peas and potato. I know it’s not meant to happen when you review restaurants, but we sat down to eat identical meals. 

As we waited (for all of about ten minutes), we realised how much we actually liked the bare tables, the bright lights and the industrial fridges. As Indian pop music bubbled along in the background and Chaula’s son played with his cars on the counter, it dawned on us that we weren’t just having lunch, we were having a holiday. Chaula doesn’t just serve authentic Indian food, she serves it in a space that’s closer to the real deal than any flock-walled – or foliage-covered – restaurant. And when the rain outside turned into a genuine monsoon, we were momentarily transported. And this was before the food came. 

The lassis were enormous, and so thick they could have doubled for dessert. The petis were served with a sweet deep that complimented their considerable fire. And then the dosas came, on traditional stainless steel trays with an array of enticing dips. I was surprised to find the potato filling was combined with sultanas, which Chaula explained was an example of the influence of her traditional Gujarati cooking on a dish from the south. I’ve never tasted anything quite like it. 

Chaula started selling frozen Indian meals from her newsagents in St Pancras Road, but they were so popular she moved into her current premises on Station Street three years ago. She now sells her meals through shops across the county. As well as Gujarati dishes, Chaula also makes meals familiar from (predominantly Bangladeshi) curry houses, although you can taste the Gujarati influence. She cooks seasonally, adapting her menu to fit available ingredients, and unlike other ready-meals prepared in factories and transported for hundreds of miles, all her meals are made in Lewes. It’s almost guilt-free convenience food. And they deliver. 

We bought some burfi – Indian sweets made from ground nuts – to take away for dessert, which meant we had three courses – plus an enormous lassi – for seven quid each. It’s the cheapest holiday I’ve ever had. 

Chaula’s, 13 Station Street, Mon – Sat.